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Eastern Greenland is one of those locations that has been very high on my photography bucket list for many, many years. This remote area is known for its rugged nature, majestic icebergs and lengthy fjords. Travelling there is not easy, let alone organising a group experience. The area only becomes accessible in mid-July, after which you can sail around it until the end of September before it begins to freeze over again. Together with my friend Andy Mumford, we spoke about trying to organise something in this remote area almost from the moment we first met three years ago. And clearly, we were not the only ones fascinated by this unique place because as soon as we opened up this photo workshop for signups, it filled up in record time.
In August 2024, the time had finally come. We met up with the participants at the domestic airport in Reykjavík where we boarded our special charter flight and, unknowingly, embarked on what would become the adventure of a lifetime exploring the area in and around Scoresbysund. Planning your own trip? My Scoresby Sund photography guide covers how to get there, when to go, the route, the drone rules and Ittoqqortoormiit.
A happy group after an exciting & fulfilling week in one of the most remote areas of the Arctic.
This adventure wasn’t just fulfilling photographically but also an incredible experience. Being in such a remote corner of the planet, on a beautiful boat, with incredible people, it has easily made it into my top 3 photo workshops (& overall trips) this year.
Our Home For The Week: The Sailboat ‘Tilvera’
After a small delay, we finally left Reykjavík. At our destination, Constable Point in East Greenland, it immediately became clear that we were in the middle of nowhere. Aside from the muddy airstrip, a few buildings & three sailboats, there was nothing around us within visible range. As soon as we got our bags, we were greeted by Heimir, the captain of Tilvera. After a short walk (during which we already saw an arctic fox), we made it to an improvised pier from where we began ferrying people and luggage onto Tilvera.
Tilvera, the sailboat we would be calling home for the next week, is a beautiful ship with a lot of character. Compared to the two other vessels that would be travelling with us, Opal & Hildur, it is definitely the more modern one. Tilvera has comfortable (yet small) cabins, a cozy saloon with an inspiring library and a charming deckhouse. Outside on the deck, there is ample space for everyone on board to enjoy the beautiful surroundings. What we would later find out is that perhaps the best part of Tilvera was the crew, who have many years of experience with sailing in Greenland. They were not just experienced but also genuinely kind, considerate, inspiring and great people to spend time with.
Thanks to Tilvera we can reach all of these amazing places where bigger expedition ships could not possibly go. Can you spot our boat in this photograph?
The Encounter Of A Lifetime
As soon as we arrived on the ship, we had a quick chat with Heimir & Belén (the owners of Tilvera). Because neither Andy nor I had ever been to Scoresbysund before, our message to them was clear: ‘Our goal is photography. We trust you. You have the experience in this area.’. After all, why wouldn’t we lean on their experience to get the best out of the adventure?
As we sailed further and further away from the airstrip, the cell coverage got spottier and spottier. I was ready for a week completely off-grid. Our first goal was to sail through the night and reach Sol glacier, which is a glacial outlet ending up into Scoresbysund. It is located on the southern end of Scoresbysund and it would take us some time to reach. While we commenced our trip, we got to settle into our cabins and enjoyed a taste of the great cooking we would experience throughout the trip. This was swiftly followed by our first beautiful sunset as we sailed out of the inlet where Constable Point is located. While the icebergs were few at first, we still managed to get some shots in.
As we arrived at Sol glacier, we got our drones up for the first time to capture a few icebergs, as well as the impressive glacier front. This was the perfect teaching moment for the drone pilots in the group as they could get used to flying from a moving boat and all the complexities that brings with it.
Even though we were still far away from the most amazing icebergs, there was some shots to be had during this colourful sunset.
The morning of our first full day in Scoresbysund, we were greeted by moody conditions. As it turned out, these would be the only moody conditions throughout the entire trip.
Even in those first 24 hours, we saw 4 or 5 different types of landscapes. These incredible basalt columns were found on the southern end of Scoresbysund. Some of these basaltic layers are incredibly thick.
Occasionally, we would spot one of the other two sailboats (Hildur & Opal) travelling near us which provided a perfect opportunity to get scale in the photographs.
Some of the icebergs we spotted that first day had unbelievable shapes and colours.
As we progressed along the shoreline, we had one simple goal: find a polar bear. Before this trip, I had been reading in the Icelandic newspapers that more polar bears had been sighted this year due to the sea ice moving much further south than usual. I have to admit, this got my hopes up of seeing a polar bear. I had already seen a polar bear in the wild back in Svalbard in 2019. However, that experience left me hungry for much more as I didn’t feel I got a good photograph out of it.
After about two hours of sailing, the captain called me and said ‘We may have a polar bear’. Apparently, about an hour before, one of the other sailboats had spotted one resting on the shoreline. I quickly informed the group to get their cameras ready. As we began approaching the area where the polar bear had been seen, we all stood out on deck on the lookout. After a few minutes, we could see a white-yellow animal lying on top of a rock next to the water. It was still very far out, so we decided to approach it at a slow pace. However, as soon as we got closer, the polar bear leapt into the water and began swimming. “That’s it.” is what I thought. I figured we would lose it now as polar bears can swim great distances for hours without stopping. However, we were in for a great surprise…
At first, the polar bear was lying on a rock by the shore…
… but then suddenly, he leapt into the water and began swimming.
After a few minutes, the polar bear swam past an iceberg a few hundred metres away from the shoreline. I jokingly said to the group that it would be so perfect if he would sit on top of the iceberg to pose for us. To everyone’s surprise, something really special was about to unfold. As the polar approached the iceberg, he stopped and climbed out of the water onto the iceberg! All I could say was “NO WAY! NO WAY! THIS IS NOT HAPPENING!” as I fired off my camera, taking shot after shot after shot. Heimir took us carefully closer while the polar bear approached a hole inside the iceberg. Incredibly, the bear walked behind the hole, looked through as if he were posing for us and then proceeded further onto the iceberg where he posed for us for a long time. He sat there so long that I filled up an entire memory card with postcard-perfect photographs of a polar bear sitting on top of a crystal-blue iceberg. Less than 24 hours into this expedition and our minds were completely blown already. This single encounter was such an incredible moment to us that the trip had already become a great success even if it would have ended right there and then.
This was such an incredibly moment. As if he knew he was posing for a boat full of photographers, the polar bear stuck his head through the hole inside the iceberg…
…before he proceeded to climb the iceberg even further.
I took so many photographs I am extremely happy with so it was very, very hard to make a selection for this blog. Below are some of my favourite ones of this unique encounter.
After the encounter with this, presumably young, polar bear, we headed further west to continue on our journey. Everyone was exhilarated and you could sense the feeling of excitement and fulfilment. The polar bear had given us everything we wanted, and then even more. We got the best encounter, with the best possible backdrop. Our memory cards were full and so were our minds & hearts.
As we proceeded to our anchorage for the evening, we got treated to a beautiful sunset over the bay we had just crossed.
Solitude In Magical Surroundings
I would think “How could the rest of this adventure possibly become better after such an encounter?” but that’s exactly what happened. Perhaps not in such a spectacular way but it really was how the trip would continue. Every day would have its own special & unique moment. The following days, we spent exploring the more narrow passages while circling around the Milneland island, starting with a journey through the iceberg-filled Fønfjord.
That evening, we anchored at Red Island (Rødeø) where we visited the incredible ‘Iceberg City’. Well, actually, it was more of an ‘Iceberg Graveyard’ as this is a place where icebergs get stuck and remain until they disappear completely. We cruised between the icebergs during sunset, while also making a landing on the shores of the island so we could fly our drones to capture the incredible scenery in front of us.
As we travelled through Fønfjord, the other two sailboats were never far behind.
There were so many icebergs at the Iceberg City that had interesting shapes. The shots were just for the picking there.
I found that using my drone to capture these giants was much better choice than shooting from the zodiacs as that way we did not disturb the beautiful reflections on the water.
This photograph, taken during sunset, shows really well how many icebergs were in this place and how they were all seemingly stuck in the same spot.
I found this spiral by accident but thought it was really, really interesting. It disappeared almost as fast as I saw it appear.
We landed on the Red Island and used the opportunity to shoot from the shore. Before we jumped back in the zodiacs, we got to enjoy this gorgeous pastel coloured sunset.
The next few days would be all about these incredible icebergs. As we sailed further north into Rødefjord, we would see more and more of these frozen giants. The water surface was incredibly still, resulting in stunning reflections. One iceberg in particular, which we encountered close to our anchorage, was just enormous. Especially with a drone you could see all the smaller icebergs surrounding it were all just part of the same one. Later that evening, Heimir & Belén chose a great anchorage for us to enjoy the sunset. It was a pretty spectacular evening. We got the most amazing light, while also enjoying a barbecue and being surrounded by incoming slush ice. It was such a perfect moment. So much so that I got a bit carried away by the excitement. I was eating, flying my drone and using my camera at pretty much the same time. Talk about proper multi-tasking!
I have never seen such a large, enormous even, body of water be so flat. Even though the weather was not what I wanted (yuk those blue skies), I still managed to take many photographs I loved.
This was one of the largest icebergs we came across. Heimir, our captain, did a marvellous job navigating us closely so we could get stunning drone images.
Can you spot Tilvera, our sailboat?
Later that evening, we got completely enclosed by slush ice from an iceberg calving.
The sunset was incredible and I flew my drone back to the large iceberg, which was only 2,5 kilometres away from us, to get this sunset shot.
But even with the camera you could get gorgeous photograph.
Shooting with my ultra-wide angle lens was absolute key to get the most out of this colour explosion.
At the end of Øfjord awaited the Bear Islands, our final stop before commencing the long journey back to Constable Point. These uniquely shaped islands are recognised by the pointy and long mountain ridges that resemble a dragon’s spine sticking out of the water. It struck me at that moment how incredible it was that the landscape kept changing dramatically throughout the trip. Even after six days of travelling within the same, relatively small area, we kept seeing completely new geology.
After a terrific final evening (with a barbecue) on the Bear Islands, we began our journey through the night towards the only village in a 650 kilometre radius, Ittoqqortoormiit, before heading back to Constable Point for our return flight home. As the sun began setting, we sailed in between some of the largest icebergs we saw during the trip on the flattest ocean surface I have ever seen. What an amazing end to an amazing trip.
As the adventure progressed, the icebergs just became bigger and bigger. We found this massive ice castle float in the middle of the fjord we were traversing.
Every now and then, we would see glacial outlets slide down into the water. I really liked the spires on this glacial front. I decided to add the sailboat for scale.
This is an image showing the same iceberg as in the first image but from a top down perspective. Absolutely massive and yet so seemingly fragile!
As we got towards the end of the fjord, the mountains became bigger and the colours became softer. Perfect for telephoto action!
The mountains were unlike anything I have ever seen before. Some of these peaks stick out 1,5 kilometres or more above the sea level.
On the Bear Islands, we got to enjoy stunning mountain ranges that look like a dragon’s spine.
What Made This Greenland Photo Expedition Tick?
This entire expedition is the perfect blend between photography and experience.
Travelling aboard a sailboat means ‘slow travelling’. Travelling between locations takes time, which means it is ideal for photography as it allows you to really ‘see’ the landscape in front of you. It forces you to slow down, leaving you time to be amazed by all the wonders that pass by every second of the trip. If there would be an interesting iceberg, or wildlife, we would make a stop or even circle around it. The crew was incredibly accommodating to our photography needs.
But it’s also about the entire experience. You are in such a remote part of the world with no phone reception. The only people around you are those you are sharing the sailboat with. It gives you a sense of exploration and it works as an incredible bonding experience too. And what reinforced the experience was the fact we got to participate in the whole experience. We got to help the crew hoist the sails, steer the boat and even kept an ice watch at night to keep us clear of the bigger & smaller icebergs that may cross our path. If this is the kind of trip you’re after, it runs as one of my Greenland photography tours. The one that reaches this coast is my East Greenland photo expedition, which sails the same fjord system, these days aboard Ocean Sherpa.
On Tilvera, we were allowed to truly participate in the experience.
This was definitely one of the most memorable barbecues I have ever gotten to enjoy.
Our final evening on the Bear Islands.
My Five Favourite Images Of This Photo Workshop
While I haven’t been able to edit all of my images yet coming out of a very busy summer, I did manage to make a selection of my favourite images.
I really enjoy this frame because you can see how the polar bear is smelling to find out what is going on.
This image was taken using the Canon EOS R5 (https://jvn.photo/go/eosr5/) + Canon RF 100-500mm (https://jvn.photo/go/rf-100-500mm).
The way the ice is curved behind the polar bear lines up perfectly with the head of the animal, as well as the shape of it.
This image was taken using the Canon EOS R5 (https://jvn.photo/go/eosr5/) + Canon RF 100-500mm (https://jvn.photo/go/rf-100-500mm).
The way the sun casts an almost spotlight effect towards the iceberg really caught me eye in this scene.
This image was taken using the DJI Mavic 3 Pro (https://jvn.photo/go/mavic3pro).
This spiral felt so unique, I had to somehow capture it. What was really tricky was that it appeared very close to the shore, which was exactly what I didn’t want to include in my frame for this shot so I had to improvise with how to compose it.
This image was taken using the DJI Mavic 3 Pro (https://jvn.photo/go/mavic3pro).
This mountain with a flat top, really stood out to me amongst all the other mind-blowing mountains we saw.
This image was taken using the Canon EOS R5 (https://jvn.photo/go/eosr5/) + Canon RF 100-500mm (https://jvn.photo/go/rf-100-500mm).
This particular image really stood out for me because of how well it portrays the enormous scale of some of the icebergs we saw during this trip.
This image was taken using the DJI Mavic 3 Pro (https://jvn.photo/go/mavic3pro).
If you want to sail Scoresbysund for yourself, my East Greenland photo expedition runs from 25 August to 1 September 2027. If the icebergs of West Greenland’s Disko Bay appeal to you more, take a look at my West Greenland photo workshop.
Discover Jeroen’s Photo Workshops in Iceland, Greenland & Beyond
Ready to take your photography to the next level? Join me, Jeroen Van Nieuwenhove, on unforgettable photo workshops in Iceland, Greenland, Antarctica and other exciting destinations. Whether your passion is wildlife photography, bird photography, landscape adventures, or mastering drone photography, each workshop is designed to give you hands-on guidance in some of the world’s most spectacular locations.
From puffins in the midnight sun to Arctic foxes in the wild, from glaciers and volcanoes to dramatic coastlines seen by drone – these journeys are more than workshops; they’re once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Group sizes are kept small, ensuring personal mentoring and plenty of shooting opportunities.
Looking for something specific? Check out Jeroen’s…
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